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Saturday, December 31, 2011

PLACE: Salumeria 104

  • M.O.: Casual Northern Italian in a modern setting. Doubles as an Italian deli though selection relegated to one fridge’s worth of stuff. Run by the guys from Tiramesu, Spris, Mai Tardi, etc.
    Porchetta at Salumeria 104
  • Execution: Menu starts with salumi boards: prosciutto, bresaola and other usual suspects. Salads are fresh, particularly the Contadina with greens from Paradise Farms. Primi piatti include fresh and dried pasta, including a spaghetti topped with bottarga and fresh gnocchi with short rib. Mains are heavy from pork chop to porchetta. Can never pass up porchetta, but 104’s version was a little subpar. Skin was spongy and flimsy even though the slice had obviously been seared before serving. D’s pasta was a gloppy mess of thick mushy noodles, speck, oyster mushrooms and cream. Would’ve been better sans cream and just with olive oil. Wine list was divied up by price with many by the glass and quartino available. Service was mellow.
  • Conclusion: Hearty Northern Italian and Miami don’t really mix well. I can’t imagine having a veal chop for dinner in mid-July. A lighter touch with pastas may make it warm weather friendly and the prices, service,location and know-how of the Graspa group will keep Salumeria 104 going.

Salumeria 104 on Urbanspoon

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